1996 Chablis Vaillons

The Chablis Vaillons exhibits strong mineral, honeysuckle and flint aromas as well as a rich, masculine, medium-to-full-bodied, complex, highly-focused, and oily-textured flavor profile packed with layers of flint, white fruits and flowers. Superbly balanced, structured and ripe, it should age effortlessly. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2008. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Vincent Dauvissat said he had never seen a vintage with grapes as concentrated, mature, healthy and as high in acidity as 1996, calling it "a 200% Chablis vintage." His father, Rene Dauvissat, reportedly believes it is comparable to 1949. A hail storm in May struck the village and premier cru vineyards but the grand crus were thankfully spared. The younger Dauvissat believes that the dry wind from the north-east that blew constantly during the months of August and September is responsible for dropping yields 25% through dehydration and the thickening of skins, and that the spring hail was responsible for another 25% drop in yields. He deduced this from the fact that yields in his village and premier cru vineyards were 50% off the norm while yields in Les Clos were only 25% below average. The estate is extending its normal elevage time to allow the wines to build body and complexity in the barrels, and to take advantage of this winter's drop in temperatures to help reduce the acidity levels (cold precipitates tartaric acid). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.