2008 Chablis Vaillons

Scents of peony, iris and ripe peach with pungent hints of nettle and white currant in the nose of Moreau’s 2008 Chablis Vaillons are strikingly similar to those of their generic wine of this vintage, as is the harmonious and delightful cohabitation of textural creaminess with juicy refreshment. But here there is greater intensity of flavor yet at the same time a greater sense of lift and refinement. Pungent yet suggestively sweet notes of candied citrus rind and crystallized ginger; a bitter note of huckleberry; and saline, chalky notes all add to the appeal and complexity of a long, luscious, vivacious finish. This beauty should be worth following for at least 5-7 years. Christian and Fabien Moreau are among those fans of 2008 who think of the vintage as combining the best aspects of its two predecessors. “You just watched the grapes go rolling by on the table de trie,” remarks Christian Moreau, “without having to do any work.” However one conceptualizes it, results in 2008 are superb and to my palate the top wines are considerably more exciting than any I have previously tasted from this address. Fermentations were generally allowed to proceed spontaneously rather than being yeasted – and in consequence both alcoholic and malo-lactic fermentations of several lots lasted until April – which might account for some of the added complexity and refinement as well as effective digestion of their oak component that characterizes these superb wines. (The Moreaus’ effusive 2009s – from a vintage they compare with 2000 – finished fermenting a bit earlier, and were extremely promising when tasted this April, demonstrating that this domaine is on a roll.) Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700