2009 Chablis Vaillons

The 2009 Chablis Vaillons is all about delineation, focus and transparency. It is a compelling, marvelously subtle wine in every way. In particular, the Vaillons successfully reconciles the generosity of the year with the minerality that is typical of this site. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. (Not yet released) Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village’s uncontested superstars. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Pale yellow. Ripe aromas of lemon peel and baked bread. Enters brisk and lemony, then shows a silkiness in the middle, with harmonious acidity giving the wine a penetrating quality. Lovely sweetness and perfume here. The silky finish is given grip by lemon and stone notes. This should make a lovely drink in three years.

Pale yellow-green. Crystallized lemon peel with a spearminty high tone on the nose. Dense and fruity, conveying a sweeter, richer impression than the Montmain. This is downright glyceral for a young Raveneau wine. Bernard notes that this 2008 is atypical owing to an especially long fermentation.