2007 Chablis Vaillons

The Raveneau 2007 Chablis Vaillons (from the core site of that name, with just a few rows lapping into Sechet) was picked on their second day of harvest due to rot pressure on account of clusters having been lightly impacted by hail. From tank, it offers a prime example of the sort of blazing brightness of citrus and almost visceral energy as well as the palpable underlying density and extract that inherently characterize its vintage. The mineral dimension here is equal parts adamant stoniness and savory, invigorating salinity, which makes for a shimmering exchange with fresh citrus in a zesty, ginger-spiced, lip-smacking, practically electrically-charged finish. To the possible extent that any of this wine’s intense concentration might reveal itself to have been influenced by botrytis, its evolution bears careful watching, but for now it seems as pure as it is bright and likely destined for at least 6-8 years of fascinating enjoyment. Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s – picked from September 10-16 – as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524