2009 Chablis Vaillons

(15% of this wine was vinified in used barrels): Bright yellow. Green apple, mint and white flowers on the nose, lifted by a steely quality. Supple, creamy and complex, with nicely integrated acidity firming the finish and extending the wine's perfume. Still, this is more generous on the aftertaste than the Montmains. In fact, this strikes me as rather Puligny-like.

Ginger and apple aromas are lifted by stony minerality. Broad, concentrated and ripe, with an open-knit texture in the style of the year. This sweet, supple wine is not especially high in acidity but offers a more pleasing balance than the 2008 version. Finishes with impressive length.