2002 Chablis Vaillons
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Tasting notes
Musky aromas of citrus skin, lime blossom, powdered stone, chicken broth and flint. Big, rich, ripe and peachy, with a silky texture. A very pliant, fat Chablis with strong fruit and stone character. The longest of these 2002s to this point. Seems richer and more open than I would have predicted a year ago, perhaps due to Guffens' use of the lees.
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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The intense aromas of the 2002 Chablis Vaillons reveal minerals, slate, flint, white flowers, and loads of talcum powder. Medium-bodied, broad shouldered, and exhibiting outstanding richness, this is a wine of gorgeous depth. Quartz, perfume, lilies, and flint vie for the tasters attention in this complex, well-balanced beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2014. Jean Marie Guffens is ecstatic about 2002. “This is the best vintage we’ve done at Verget. From Macon to the Cote d’Or to Chablis, it is like a concentrated 1992. We were able to harvest in each area at the optimal time. We have great ripeness, not overripe, with excellent acidity, and the bulk prices that we paid actually dropped. The only problem in 2002 was some volatile acidity during fermentation, so we used more sulphur earlier than usual. Alcoholic fermentations took an extremely long time, and some of our malolactic fermentations were completed before the sugar was all eaten.” A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 and North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers; tel. (800) 525-9699
(20% fermented in barrel and the rest in tank; some of this wine is still in barrel) Pale green-tinged yellow. Nose dominated by lime, minerals and powdered stone. Very intense but tightly wound citrus and talc flavors on the front half, then aromatic and floral on the expanding back end. Offers a compelling combination of fruits and minerals. Finishes with lipsmacking cut and juiciness. This will make delicious drinking from the start. "My Haut-Bailly," says Guffens, referring to the Graves red wine that's deceptively approachable early but has a history of slow and positive evolution in bottle.