2010 Chablis Vaillons

Delineation and nuance are the cornerstones of the 2010 Chablis Vaillons. The Vaillons possesses gorgeous detail in a fairly approachable style for the year. White peaches, pears and apples frame the floral, bright finish. The Vaillons is a great example of the harmony of the 2010 vintage in that the richness of the fruit makes the wine accessible young, while the vibrant acidity will please more classically leaning palates. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bernard Billaud told me he views 2011 as a classic Chablis vintage, one of the few producers who holds that view. The growing season got off to an early start, with flowering that was three weeks ahead of schedule. The harvest began on September 10, as opposed to late September/early October, which is much more common. I tasted most of the 2011s from tank and/or barrel, except the Petit Chablis and Chablis, which were bottled in May 2012. Always eloquent, Billaud describes 2010 as a ‘grand millesime.’ Vintage 2010 at the domaine was characterized by a rainy summer with little heat. On average, yields were down 25%. Billaud bottled his 2010 grand crus in May 2012. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Pale green-yellow. High-pitched aromas of lemon, anise and metallic minerality. Penetrating and incisive on the palate, with a fine-grained texture to the citrus and floral flavors. Shows the thickness of the year but with noteworthy finesse. The youthfully edgy, slowly mounting finish suggests that this wine will benefit from at least a few years of aging.

Open nose and very fresh immediate appeal even if not for the very long term. (JR)