2002 Diebolt Vallois Blanc de Blanc Fleur de Passion

The 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Fleur de Passion is initially a rather tightly-wound, angular wine. With some time in the glass, this Champagne becomes a little more generous, yet it remains focused in its expression of white peaches, flowers and minerals. The finish is long, sweet and ultimately quite seductive, even if this isn’t an especially accessible wine at this stage. The Fleur de Passion is made from the estate’s oldest vines in Cramant and aged in barrel. Disgorged in July, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Unfortunately I was only able to taste one wine from Diebolt-Vallois, a family-run property located in Cramant that traces its roots all the way back to the 15th century. Importer: Vintage 59 Imports, Washington DC; tel (202) 966-9218.

Light, bright gold with a vigorous bead. Explosively perfumed bouquet of vibrant citrus and orchard fruits, baking spices, fresh white flowers and smoky minerals. Lush pear and tangerine flavors are brightened by Meyer lemon and talc, with a suave undercurrent of vanilla bean and honey. This really stains the palate, but the impression is of finesse rather than force. An extremely sexy, deeply concentrated wine that blends elegance with power, finishing with outstanding persistence and a strong mineral echo. One of the best Champagnes I tasted this year.