2004 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

I am thrilled with the way the 2004 Comtes de Champagne continues to evolve in bottle. A few years ago, the 2004 was quite focused and linear, in the style of the vintage, but more recently, the wine has begun to fill out beautifully. The 2004 remains bright, with a full range of citrus, white flower and mineral nuances that dance on the palate. A brisk, saline-infused finish rounds things out beautifully in a Comtes that impresses for its crystalline purity. I expect the 2004 will always remain a bit cool next to the more opulent 2002, but it is still drop-dead gorgeous. May 2013, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2014-2034

Very neat, intense with notes of putty on the nose. Complex and well knit. Masses of acidity! Still quite tight. Very promising and one can certainly see a relationship with a grand cru Chablis here. Very youthful. Gentle bead. Great energy. But quite broad. Nov 2013, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2014-2024