2004 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau

Light ruby color. Intensely floral nose offers seductive dark berry scents and exotic Asian spices. Quite round and silky, showing a wonderfully pure blackberry quality and lush, rounded tannins. Finishes gently spicy, sweet and long, with no rough edges.

Also classic and aging gracefully, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape is a medium to full-bodied, rich and mouth-filling effort, especially in the vintage. Kirsch, blackberry, garrigue, nori (seaweed/sushi wrapper which I seem to always find in this wine) and ample crushed-rock notes all round out the bouquet and on the palate, it’s nicely concentrated, with fine tannin and integrated acidity. It can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade. One of the benchmark, traditionally run estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Telegraphe made an impressive red and white in 2004, both of which are youthful and have another decade of longevity.

Very rich and subtle – like a refreshing cup of tea. Tannins nicely rounded – lovely balance. Bit of alcohol on the finish but a great texture. And some freshness. (JR)