2005 Muga Aro

The 2005 Aro is purple/black in color with a fragrant perfume of wood smoke, mineral, spice box, and assorted black fruits. Dense, loaded, and backward, it will likely evolve for another 20+ years and drink well through 2045. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

(70% tempranillo and 30% graciano) Glass-staining purple. Jaw-droppingly perfumed bouquet of candied cherry, blackcurrant, pipe tobacco, dark chocolate, minerals and Asian spices. There's a seductively mineral-driven quality to the vibrant fruit that reminded me of Chateau Ausone. Sweet cassis and blackberry flavors overwhelm the palate and pick up candied flowers, cinnamon and mocha with time in the glass. As lush and creamy as this wine is, there is excellent mineral spine to add focus to the endlessly sweet, spicy finish. If I could find or afford this, I'd be all over it. There were just 250 cases made of this wine, which is a selection from the property's oldest vines.