2001 Muga Aro

The 2001 Aro looks as if it has not aged one iota. Similarly, the nose is precocious with vibrant cassis, blueberry, hoisin and mint. The palate has a silky smooth entry with chocolate-tinged, dark cherry fruit laced with a touch of salt. It has a great arching backbone and a tannic finish suggesting that this could easily last 20 or 30 years. Drink 2016-2025. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

(a blend of 70% tempranillo and 30% graciano, from the estates best old vines; aged 18 months in new French Troncais barrels) Superripe aromas of blackberry, currant, minerals and sexy oak. Offers great sappy concentration, with black fruit flavors complicated by pie spices. The wine's sheer thickness of texture is leavened by harmonious acidity, giving it great finesse for a wine of this magnitude. Huge mounting finish features thoroughly ripe, noble tannins and penetrating berry and spice notes. (Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham MA