2011 Chablis Montmains

However noble its vineyard origins, when tasted on the heels of Brocard’s two generic, village bottlings of this vintage, their 2011 Chablis Montmains was up against a sizeable challenge. There is a distinct chalk and crushed stone underling cast here that helps set into relief brightly juicy citrus and apple. But the diversity of mineral-like dimensions found in those two generic bottlings is not in evidence, nor is the same sense of levity. That having been noted, this is impressively dense, and the zesty invigoration and oily yet enlivening cling here from its diverse citrus is quite persistently delightful, hints of iodine and citrus pip lending welcome counterpoint. Not only should this perform well through at least 2016, I would not be surprised to witness enhanced allure over time. Julien Brocard reports unproblematic alcoholic fermentations and malo-lactic conversions in his 2012s, although the grand crus among them were not at a stage in elevage and assemblage that he felt permitted them to be assessed at the time of my June visit. The substantial subset of Brocard 2012 premier crus I tasted was determined by limitations of time; Brocard’s notion of wines that were at a perspicuous point in their elevage; and my choices of certain crus that I did not want to miss. Virtually all of the Brocard crus are now being farmed biodynamically and major inroads in that direction have been made with their village-level vineyards, too (most notably in the historical core of the family’s holdings that constitute the Domaine Sainte Claire). Julien Brocard is of the opinion that 2012 presented the sort of test in extremity that biodynamics at his domaine under-went as well in 2003, and that not only does this approach conduce to quality, but also to more regular yields. Yields from those vineyards that weren’t being biodynamically farmed, he reports, nosedived in both vintages while the others experienced only a small dip. Potential alcohol in 2012 was only slightly higher than in 2011, and nowadays most Brocard wines weigh-in well below 13%; but most of the sizeable share of 2011s I tasted – both the more exuberant among them, and some that were, for now at least, more restrained – share a disarming and delightful sense of levity. Vinificatory vessels at this address continue their nearly decade-long trend toward diversification, with larger barrels, full-fledged foudre and concrete eggs all supplementing the more prosaic stainless steel tanks and barriques. Incidentally, like Fevre, Brocard is now utilizing DIAM composite cork to stopper their wines, right up through grand cru. Various importers, including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, M.S. Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776-6700 and Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763

Bright light yellow. Underripe pineapple, flowers, fresh herbs, honey and wet-stone minerality on the nuanced nose. Ripe and silky but bright too, with stone fruits dominating the middle palate. Not as complex in the mouth as the nose suggests but finishes with good length and energy.

The 2011 Chablis Montmains is quite a bit more taut and pointed than the Vaucoupin. Lemon zest, spices and slate all meld together in this gracious, nicely balanced wine. Hints of salinity add freshness on the finish. I very much like the sense of direction and energy.