2008 Chablis Montmains

Raveneau’s 2008 Chablis Montmains – a cru he chose this year to ferment as well as mature in barrel – smells of white and pink grapefruit zest and brown spices, along with a 1996-reminiscent note of white truffle. An oily feel and spiciness reinforced by a hint of oak complement its bittersweet citrus oil flavors, and the texture here is quite plush for the vintage. But there is also a refreshing core of primary lemon and grapefruit juiciness, and this finishes with an impressive sense of energy and penetration. It would best be given 2-3 years in bottle and should show well for at least 8-10. Bernard Raveneau had been among those growers most bursting with enthusiasm about his 2008s when I had visited the following April, likening them to 1996s but with effusively floral and high-toned herbal aromatics such as he said he had never experienced in his young wines. As with the 2007s (and compared with 2009s that Raveneau expected to give shorter elevage), the collection here was bottled largely in late spring and early summer, only two wines having been bottled when I tasted them this April. (The others were in tank or pre-assembled for me.) But it was already clear by then that this collection has justified its author’s initial excitement and confidence. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524