2006 Chablis Montmains

Juicy, generous citricity is also a feature of Raveneau’s 2006 Chablis Montmains, but here we have more serious suggestions of chalk and savory umami, mineral character; a texture more silken than creamy; and a brightly citric, pungent, zesty, faintly peppery length. This dynamic cru should be worth following for 7-9 years at least. Bernard Raveneau is an unabashed partisan of his 2005s – and no wonder, based on the subset of those that I tasted, including a magnificent Valmur which he rightly terms “complete” and “close to his ideal.” Raveneau is less effusive in praise of his 2006s – each of which I tasted from a selection of barrels – opining that lavish fruit and richness are precisely this collection’s fortes. I think he underestimates the depth of his own 2006s, and only hope I have opportunity to revisit some of them in five or ten years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524