2010 Gigondas Les Racines

The soft, delicious 2010 Gigondas Les Racines is, surprisingly, more open-knit than I remember it from last year. Abundant notes of red and black currants, raspberries, garrigue, crushed rock and peppery spice are all present in this medium to full-bodied, elegant yet substantial, authoritative Gigondas. It should drink well for 12-15+ years. Les Pallieres, one of the iconic estates of Gigondas, is now owned (and has been reinvigorated) by the partnership of Vieux Telegraphe’s Daniel Brunier and the well-known American boutique wine importer, Kermit Lynch. Brunier and Lynch have done a fabulous job turning this estate around, and they continue to fine tune what is a complicated, cool climate, high altitude property where the harvest is usually two to three weeks after that of Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf du Pape. As for the red wines, both of the cuvees produced are approximately 80% Grenache, with the Terrasse du Diable coming from vineyards planted at 300-900 meters and Les Racines from lower slopes where there is more clay and less decomposed limestone. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Even better and always a richer, more concentrated wine, the 2010 Les Racines (85% Grenache and the rest a mix of Syrah, Cinsault, and white Clairette) has classic kirsch liqueur, rolled stone, iron, and licorice aromas and flavors. It’s a big, full-bodied effort that has a decadent texture, beautiful balance, and blockbuster length. It should be given 2-3 years of bottle age, and then followed over the following decade or longer.

Bright ruby. Fresh red fruit and garrigue on the intensely perfumed, complex nose. The palate offers silky bitter cherry, raspberry and licorice flavors complicated by fresh bay and dried lavender. Really an essence of Provence! Closes on a spicy note, with lingering sweetness and a touch of smoky herbs. An essence of Gigondas.