1996 Chevalier Montrachet
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Tasting notes
Deep greenish gold. From J Sheekey's list at heaven-knows-what price. Intensely savoury nose that grew and grew so that the last glass was the best (perhaps we should have asked them to decant it; it certainly worked well that we asked for a wine cooler to keep it at cellar temperature rather than letting them put it in an ice bucket and risk its being served too cool). A note of walnuts and still the real tingle of some fresh acidity and a hint of green vegetation (though not unripe fruit). Medium weight and great balance. Very firm and eloquent. Nothing remotely sweet about this. No obvious oak or lees. Beautifully balanced. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Pierre Rovani
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Deep copper. Very rich and buttery nose. Tangy. Finished quite dry with lots of acidity – surprise, surprise. Not enormous weight. Toasty. A certain greenness – very 1996! On the end, fresh and competent rather than hedonistic (JR)
This grand cru is unbelievable, possessing everything I could hope for in a white wine. Is this a candidate to merit a perfect score? The profound Chevalier-Montrachet, produced from vines planted in 1968 and 1972, offers a mind-blowingly intricate, precise and refined nose of minerals, chalk, rock dust and flowers. On the palate, this breathtaking wine enthralls with its superbly defined and harmonious medium-to-full-body. Each time I raised the glass to my lips I found new flavors. Minerals, stones, gooseberry, plums, sea shells, toast, raspberries, peaches, pears, honeysuckle blossoms, "champagne" currants, and flint can all be discerned in this silky, lovely, refined, and ethereal wine. Words simply cannot do it justice. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012. This wine was bottled early - in August. Niellon is reluctant to pass judgement on a vintage until the wine has been in the bottle for several years. However, he commented that the 1996s are "very lively without being disagreeable", and are similar to his '93s, "but with fruit and more body." Malos were slow to start (a story heard throughout the Cote), and lasted an abnormally long time. With the exception of my visit to Domaine Coche-Dury, I cannot recall having ever tasted such an extraordinary line-up of young white Burgundies. I left Niellon's cellar yearning for more. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.
This grand cru is unbelievable, possessing everything I could hope for in a white wine. Is this a candidate to merit a perfect score? The profound Chevalier-Montrachet, produced from vines planted in 1968 and 1972, offers a mind-blowingly intricate, precise and refined nose of minerals, chalk, rock dust and flowers. On the palate, this breathtaking wine enthralls with its superbly defined and harmonious medium-to-full-body. Each time I raised the glass to my lips I found new flavors. Minerals, stones, gooseberry, plums, sea shells, toast, raspberries, peaches, pears, honeysuckle blossoms, "champagne" currants, and flint can all be discerned in this silky, lovely, refined, and ethereal wine. Words simply cannot do it justice. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012. Feb 1998, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
From the heart of Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine Michel Niellon embodies generations of craftsmanship and Burgundian finesse, producing elegant, terroir-driven wines from just 8 hectares.