2009 Chevalier Montrachet

The 2009 Chevalier-Montrachet has some of the richness of the Bienvenues but with the energy of the Batard. It possesses lovely balance, an understated personality and fine textural elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2013+ Vincent Girardin is among the producers who have made the most dramatic changes in response to the issue of premature oxidation. Girardin has increased the amount of time his wines spend on their lees, has lowered new oak, has eliminated batonnage and has basically re-built his entire approach from the bottom up, which I have to say, is quite impressive. The 2009s were harvested beginning on September 15, with natural alcohols in the 12.5-13% range. The wines were bottled between mid-March and mid-May 2011. Today the 2009s are quite fresh and still showing some of the effects of their recent bottling. It is safe to say the wines Girardin is making today are quite different from those of the past. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

(along with the Bienvenue and the Batard, this is a domain wine) Hazy pale yellow. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of lemon, lime, lavender, licorice, fresh herbs and crushed stone. Densely packed and minerally, with juicy ripe acidity and captivating floral lift leavening the wine's surprising sweetness. Wonderfully creamy and pliant in texture: this will give pleasure fairly early. Best today on the sappy, echoing, very long finish. Girardin's top 2009s boast terrific chewy depth and soil character: it's hard to find chardonnay like these anywhere but on the Cote de Beaune.

The 2009 Chevalier-Montrachet has some of the richness of the Bienvenues but with the energy of the Batard. It possesses lovely balance, an understated personality and fine textural elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2013+ Aug 2011, www.robertparker.com