2007 Chablis Les Sechets

As with last year’s memorable rendition, Dauvissat’s 2007 Chablis Sechet offers a dimension of savory crustacean reduction reminiscent of Preuses, along with a garland of gorgeously high-toned floral perfume. Hints of bitter-sweet licorice and black fruits as well as invigoratingly saline and citrus zest notes add further allure. A shimmering exchange of bright citrus and myriad herbal, floral, and crystalline mineral notes makes for a lingering finish which, along with this wine’s combination of flavor concentration and delicacy, puts me in mind a bit of a great Riesling. This should remain superb for at least the next 6-8 years. Incidentally, this clearly blessed vineyard parcel lies between one of the two owned by Fevre and La Moutonne. Vincent Dauvissat (whose father Renee’s name has been removed from that of the domaine, a fact I neglected to reflect in my Issue 179 coverage) harvested between September 11 and 21 a crop entirely in keeping with his estate’s awesome track record. But things were not looking good, he says, until the north wind arrived to banish incipient botrytis and permit felicitous, healthy concentration. Hail trimmed some of his crop of generic Chablis and Vaillons, but left the foliage unscathed, he reports, so that fruit maturation was not retarded. The premier crus came in at not much over 12% natural alcohol and were lightly chaptalized, more to extend their fermentations, insists Dauvissat, than to boost body. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 (Under the “Dauvissat-Camus” label, certain of these wines are also imported by Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (781) 352-1100.)