1999 Louis Roederer Cristal

The exceptional maturity of the harvest (lowest acidity since 1959), along with the quality and quantity was reminiscent of great vintages like 1970 and 1982. In the Côte des Blancs, grape harvesting began on 14 September, while in the Marne Valley, Louis Roederer started two days before everyone else. Average degree levels varied between 10 and 12.5 °C, and the grapes were beautifully healthy. In the Montagne de Reims, everything began on 20 September. During this time, the more abundant plots continued to ripen. Yields from the vineyards of Verzenay and Verzy were close to record levels. As in the Côte des Blancs, weather conditions in August and early September made quality compatible with high yield, thus promising a great vintage. Disgorged 2011. 57% Pinot Noir. Dosage 8 g/l with the same wine. Lovely richness on the nose with real spread of crème pâtissière but very tight and refreshing too. Very satisfying. At peak and very flattering. Long and fresh. Spreads opulently but not dully across the palate. So complete. Such lovely neatness. (JR)

From jeroboam. Wow. Stunning nose, really stunning. Toasted marshmallows, saline, apple juice. Flinty, sparky, firework smokiness. Evocative. This is what the fuss is all about! (RH)

58% PN, 42% Chardonnay. Had to build the wine a bit so had 24% oak fermentation. Much deeper, pink colour than the 1996. Very broad, developed nose. Quite meaty on the nose and still delicate on the palate. Quite sensuous, like a feather brushing the palate. Far from aggressive. Actually quite chewy – still quite astringent even if not desperately acid. There’s a certain apparent sweetness. Crème patissière notes. (JR)