2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Poggio di Sotto’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is rich, sensual and layered. A voluptuous wine, the 2007 is laced with dark red cherries, flowers, licorice and flowers. The radiant, enveloping style is quite attractive, even at this early stage. A hint of oak suggests one of the casks was newer in this vintage, but hopefully the oak will integrate a little more with further time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Poggio di Sotto is understandably going through a bit of a transition. Former proprietor Piero Palmucci sold the property to Claudio Tipa of Grattamacco in 2011. That was followed by the passing of long-time winemaker Giulio Gambelli in late 2012. It will take some time for those two events to sort themselves out. Poggio di Sotto isn’t a winery – it’s an icon. Hopefully the new team will be able to equal and eventually surpass the wines made here by Gambelli, but it will require the same type of rigorous approach instilled by Palmucci, one of the most strong-willed and tenacious people I have ever met. Piero Palmucci seemed to rule with fear, and while I am not sure that is always so pleasant, the results were beyond reproach. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Very heavy bottle. Paleish burgundy look-alike. Undergrowth and sweet decay. Fragrant soft palate and well built, with a big tannic charge on the finish. But it does beg the question whether this would not have benefited more from an earlier release. (WS)

Poggio di Sotto’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is rich, sensual and layered. A voluptuous wine, the 2007 is laced with dark red cherries, flowers, licorice and flowers. The radiant, enveloping style is quite attractive, even at this early stage. A hint of oak suggests one of the casks was newer in this vintage, but hopefully the oak will integrate a little more with further time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Jun 2013, www.robertparker.com