2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a stunning wine that captures every bit of the potential I sensed when I first tasted it from barrel a few years ago. Freshly cut roses, red berries, minerals, and mint are just some of the nuances that emerge from this layered, sensual wine. In 2004 most Riservas tend towards the dark end of the spectrum but Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva is decidedly fresh and bright. The wine’s purity, depth, detail, and finesse are utterly remarkable. Once again, a comparison with Bruno Giacosa’s Barbaresco from the Asili vineyard seems appropriate. This is a hypnotizing, totally transcendental Brunello readers won’t want to miss. In fact, it is so profound, it is a shame to spit! The estate’s 2004 Riserva spent a whopping 60 months in cask prior to being bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Proprietor Piero Palmucci is not only making some of the most brilliant wines in Montalcino, he is now inspiring a whole new generation of young growers with his non-interventionalist philosophy to viticulture and traditional approach to winemaking. A visit to these small cellars is always fascinating, particularly spending some time tasting through barrel samples cask by cask. This is a stunning set of wines readers will not want to miss. The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino may very well end up being the wine of the vintage, while the Rossos reach a level matched by very few other wines. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a stunning wine that captures every bit of the potential I sensed when I first tasted it from barrel a few years ago. Freshly cut roses, red berries, minerals, and mint are just some of the nuances that emerge from this layered, sensual wine. In 2004 most Riservas tend towards the dark end of the spectrum but Poggio di Sotto's Riserva is decidedly fresh and bright. The wine's purity depth detail and finesse are utterly remarkable. Once again, a comparison with Bruno Giacosa's Barbaresco from the Asili vineyard seems appropriate. This is a hypnotizing, totally transcendental Brunello readers won't want to miss. In fact, it so profound, it is a shame to spit! The estate's 2004 Riserva spent a whopping 60 months in cask prior to being bottled.