2011 Cotes du Roussillon les Calcinares

An entrancing combination of narcissus and freesia-like floral perfume with alkaline mineral intimations in the nose of Gaubys’ 2011 Cotes du Roussillon Blanc Les Calcinaire leads to a palate impression firmer and with marginally less expansive inner-mouth appeal than that of the corresponding 2012; but beautiful depth of pear and citrus fruit; a fascinating muskiness; and a straight, penetratingly persistent finish with invigorating tang of pear skin and lime rind as well as bite of radish, all render this exuberantly juicy, buoyant and invigorating cuvee a winner that will compliment a wide range of cuisine through at least 2015. Gerard and Lionel Gauby – for much more about whose vineyards, labors, and stylistic evolution see my accounts in issues 183 and 195 – are demonstrating with their recent expansion of single-vineyard bottlings, results entirely consistent with the superb quality for which they have already become known. “From April on, we had no rain,” testifies Gerard of vintage 2012, “but also no ill-effects from hydric- or heat-stress” – other than a significant diminution of what are already an estate norm of low yields – thanks, he avers, to a now long-standing, biodynamic deep root-promoting viticultural regimen. I tasted only selectively components for 2012 Gauby reds from barrel, cask and tank last spring, but they were collectively stunning, featuring heady floral perfumes, amazingly silken textures for their youth, and a sense of levity (weighing-in –at least for the most part – under 13% alcohol) entirely consistent with density as well as depth. One need not take the Gaubys’ word that phenolic maturity was achieved early, as this is evident in the wines’ combination of ripe flavors with moderate alcohol. The 2010s here have turned out impressively and the best of them – as I forecasted in issue 195 – full of intrigue. Yet, the amazing thing is that the more generous 2011s right now upstage most of the 2010s in white as well as red, including in terms of dynamic complexity and the presence of mineral dimensions, a scenario I would never have entertained based on what I knew of these Roussillon vintages in general as opposed to what I found in the glass at this address. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800