2009 Clerc Milon

Delivers blackberry galore, with fabulous floral and currant undertones. Complex on the nose. Full-bodied, offering chewy tannins and lots of black licorice and currant character. Chewy, but reserved at the same time. A top Clerc. 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 44 percent Merlot, 4 percent Cabernet Franc, 1 percent Petit Verdot and 1 percent Carmenère

Tasted at Château Mouton-Rothschild. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenere (the first time since 2005.) 12.5% alcohol, a little higher than usual. This has a very lifted nose, very lively, this is a bouquet that wants to party, although it just lacks the refinement that I find in the d’Armailhac. Very minerally, real scents of crushed stones in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, silky smooth tannins, very good fruit intensity with black cherries, boysenberry, black plum and that minerality stretching long at the finish. Superb persistency. The wine is calming down in the glass. Very tight at the moment, it will hopefully blossom after its élevage. Tasted March 2010

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Carmenère. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Deep moody colour. Pretty sumptuous and polished – super- ripe and flattering. Very sweet and rich although, like the other wines from this stable, some slightly rugged tannins. No obvious alcohol but fairly ripe and plush, plus notable acidity. Fine boned with attractive sweetness but no knock- out ingredient X. Rather drying finish, imprecise. Certainly a defiantly more traditional style than some of its peers – odd, or perhaps predictable? – in view of the fact that it used to be criticised for being too New World!