NV Pascal Doquet Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

Reflecting not just the quality of this village's grand cru-rated acreage but also a half dozen or more years spent on the lees in bottle, not to mention a relatively distant disgorgement, Pascal Doquet's NV Brut Blanc De Blancs Le Mesnil Disg. 10/2011 displays a succulence and soothingly silken texture not claimed by his wines from lesser-classified villages that I tasted alongside, yet without sacrificing the sense of transparency to nuance that rendered memorable an Extra Brut from premier cru villages. Honey, vanilla cream and marzipan, pineapple and grapefruit engage in a luscious embrace of the confectionary and the vivaciously freshly fruity, while tinged with salt, chalk, and otherwise ineffable mineral notes associated with this prestigious sector. The at once soothing and stimulating, rich and buoyant finish clinches the case made for Le Mesnil pedigree by this outstanding bottling, one that ought to merit attention for several more years. What's more, by Champagne standards this represents excellent value. I tasted more than half of Pascal Doquet's numerous blanc de blancs cuvees, all clearly manifesting the aesthetic success of this avowedly environmentally-conscious grower. Importer:Robert Kacher Selections New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275 x 2042