2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Deux Freres

(100% grenache) Inky ruby. Extremely powerful, compellingly complex bouquet of dark berry liqueur, kirsch, lavender perfume, black olive, pipe tobacco and cured meat. Completely saturates the palate with deep, sweet black and blue fruit flavors along with notes of cola, olive and succulent herbs. Almost too big for the mouth, and yet there's no excess fat, rough edges or heaviness. In fact, this is graceful. Finishes with remarkable clarity, breadth and persistence.

Opaque purple. Extremely ripe nose displays a Banyuls-like black fruit richness and spiciness on the nose, with an exotic floral quality and slow-building vanilla and mocha. The palate offers a seriously deep, sweet mouthful of concentrated dark fruits, picking up candied licorice and bitter chocolate on the close. Became more red-fruity with air, and gained in freshness, but this will not convince finesse freaks.

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres, which comes from Les Serres, La Crau, and Esquirons (which is high on the plateau just behind the ruined chateau of the village), is an 1,800-bottle cuvee made from 100% Grenache. Unlike the Mon Aieul, part of the Deux Freres spends time in one and two year old small barrels, and the rest in 600-liter demi-muids. A fabulous effort, it may be the single greatest wine of the vintage, although the 2006 Clos des Papes and a few others will certainly challenge it. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by aromas of charcoal, pepper, blueberries, blackberries, camphor, licorice, and incense. The incredibly complex aromatics are matched by a palate of massive intensity, extraordinary purity, and an unctuous texture. This amazing wine unfolds slowly in the glass, but wow, what a ride it takes the taster on! After 5-8 years of bottle age, it should prove to be a modern day monument for Chateauneuf du Pape, evolving for three decades or more. ||What a superlative performance from proprietors Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. This is one of the few estates where the 2006s are so great that they eclipse their brilliant 2005s, and come very close to what was accomplished in 2007. 2007 is another stunning success from brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. Wine Advocate.October, 2008