2011 Macon Milly Lamartine Clos du Four

The 2011 Macon Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four comes from vines with an easterly exposure and is the only one matured solely through puncheons. It has an entrancing bouquet with linden, dandelion and burdock that is beautifully defined, even if it needs a little coaxing. The palate is very well-defined with a fine line of acidity and superb minerality toward the precise, focused finish. This is not only delicious, but intellectual. Dominique Lafon bought the parcel of Vire-Clesse in 2009. It is actually old vines in the Chateau Vire that are on a long-term lease, although Dominique sorts the finest plots to be bottled each year as the vineyard is still being repaired. When Dominique Lafon acquired his first vines in Macon in September 1999, it was significant gesture, a statement, that the world should start taking this region more seriously. Why would one of the most respected vignerons in the Cote d’Or invest in the region after so much success back in Meursault? During my visits over the years, Dominique ceaselessly enthused about his Macon wines and it was clear that he was no less passionate about his Clos du Four as his Montrachet. It is a simple, functional winery dominated by foudres and puncheons, all used (although he buys two new puncheons out of sixty each vintage). And things are about to change, since 2013 will be the first year that the vineyard will be certified biodynamic, plus he has recently purchased the chateau and vines at Clos des Quarts with Olivier Merlin, who said that he took Dominique all of 60 minutes to invest in, after showing him the vineyard. That says as much about Dominique as the potential for Clos des Quarts. I tasted through his 2012s from barrel that are all promising, although with the malolactics at various stages I will defer appraising them until they are ready (which the exception of the Macon Village). Becky Wassermann Selections (Le Serbet); www.leserbet.com