2011 Gigondas Cuvee Valbelle

Deeper and richer, with knockout notes of black raspberry, creme de cassis, spice-box, roasted meats and hints of vanilla bean (this cuvee sees roughly 25% new oak), the 2011 Gigondas Valbelle is full-bodied, seriously concentrated and has a core of sweet fruit that carries through the finish. Still with some oak to integrate, as well as plenty of tannin, this beauty can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade. Without a doubt, the leading estate in Gigondas is Louis Barruol’s Chateau Saint-Cosme. Located just outside the village, he releases an assortment of world class Gigondas, as well as a number of value priced, negotiate-styled Cotes du Rhone efforts that always deliver high-quality (these are normally released under his Saint-Cosme label and do not say Chateau Saint-Cosme). Both 2011 and 2012 are incredibly strong here and readers should not miss these wines! The three single vineyard releases are basically 100% Grenache, from unique terroirs, that are brought up all in Burgundy barrels, 30% being new, 40% 1-year-old and the balance 2-3-year old. In addition to these wines, I review a number of Barruol’s northern Rhone releases in Issue 210 as well, and covered his Chateauneuf du Papes in Issue 209. Importer: Country Vintners, Ashland, VA; tel. (804) 752-3670

Saturated ruby. High-pitched aromas of red berries, potpourri and smoky minerals, with a subtle note of white pepper building with air. Juicy and precise, offering gently sweet raspberry and cherry flavors that show very good depth. Tangy acidity adds cut and lift to a long, penetrating and gently tannic finish. This wine will be delicious young but it is balanced to age.

Dark crimson. Sweet and a little oaky. Rather exaggerated and uncomfortable. Aggressively modern. (JR)