2011 Gigondas les Hauts de Montmirail

Even better, and one of the wines of the vintage, the 2011 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail is a rough blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, with the Grenache aged in tank and the Syrah and Mourvedre in 30% new barrels. Full-bodied, textured and rich, with notable freshness and purity, it gives up brilliant aromas and flavors of smoked black fruits, melted licorice, roasted herbs and charred meats. Glass-staining purple in color, and with hints of sweet oak, it will benefit from another year or two in bottle and have over a decade of longevity. It’s seriously impressive and should not be missed! One of the leading estates in Gigondas, Domaine Brusset covers roughly 18 hectare in Gigondas, all of which are located in the higher elevation, terraced parts of the appellation. He produces two cuvees, each from single plots; the Tradition Grand Montmirail, which is brought up mostly in tank and cask, and the Les Hauts de Montmirail, which sees more small barrel aging. Laurent Brusset now makes the wines, and both his 2011s and 2012s are incredibly strong. Importer: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476

Extremely dark crimson. Freshness and life with the undertow of ripe fruit. Massive gas and energy here. But almost painful at the moment. (JR)

Seemingly always an outstanding bottle of wine, the not yet bottled 2011 Domaine Brusset Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail is a rock star in the vintage and possess a soft, voluptuously textured profile to go with notions of smoked plums, new leather, licorice, tar, and roasted meats on the nose. A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre that is aged mostly in barrel (70%), it has a medium to full-bodied mouth feel, solid mid-palate concentration, loads of polish, and enough tannin to keep it drinking well for a decade or so.