2004 Gruner Veltliner M Smaragd

Similar to other recent vintages of this “monumental” bottling, the 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd M comes from around two-thirds Loibnerberg and one-third Kellerberg fruit, although there is also a dollop from a newly-acquired parcel in Liebenberg. Again typical for “M”, the fruit was picked practically at the end of harvest, in this case the last week of November and first week of December. Honeysuckle and smoky, sweet tobacco aromas lead to an oily, full-bodied, yet firm, spicy, honeyed, and lightly-botrytis inflected palate impression. A palate-staining, faintly warm finish adds to this sweetly ripe matrix sharper notes of pepper, cress, and smoldering tobacco. The note of desiccated fruits is dominant here, making it more formidable than delightfully drinkable, but it’s early days for a wine not yet bottled. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800