2009 Chateauneuf du Pape

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape (a 3,500-case blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre from nearly 70 year old vines) exhibits abundant notes of sweet cassis, licorice, kirsch, garrigue and tobacco leaf in a full-bodied, layered, opulently textured style. This hedonistic turn-on should continue to drink well for a decade or more. Don’t miss the following “Best Buys” reviewed in several previous issues: Alain Jaume 2010 Cotes du Rhone Haut de Brune (87), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (88), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Les Champauvins (89), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Reserve Blanc (89), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (91), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Rose (86), Grand Veneur 2009 Lirac Clos de Sixte (91), and Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc de Viognier (89). Credit Christophe and Sebastian Jaume for making this one of the most impeccably run estates in the Rhone Valley. To reiterate, this is an estate at the top of its game and the wines remain fairly priced as well. The 2010 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Papes reveal youthful, crisper, more focused styles than their 2009 counterparts. I suspect their pHs are lower, the total acids slightly higher, and the alcohols perhaps .5 to 1% lower across the board. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

An outstanding Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the 2009 Domaine Grand Veneur is loaded with spice, garrigue, violets, and underlying minerality that’s backed up by perfectly ripe black cherry and pit like fruits. Silky and polished on the palate, with medium to full body, a full, concentrated mid-palate, and ripe tannin that shows on the finish, this is a solid wine that should please any Châteauneuf lover. Given the balance and fruit, it’s delicious and approachable now, but should continue to evolve and drink well for 12-15 years.

Dark purple. Sexy red and dark berries and cherry on the nose, made more complex by an exotic hint of apricot coming up with air. Deep, chewy and weighty but surprisingly fresh, offering black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and mounting floral character. Delivers a load of sweet dark fruit and finishes with lingering florality and good persistence.