1996 Dom Perignon Oenotheque
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Tasting notes
This remains one of my favorite all-time vintages of the Oenothèque series. An elegant if highly restrained nose displays cool nuances of green apple, a variety of citrus elements and discreet floral hints along with plenty of yeast character. There is superb precision to the equally cool and restrained middle weight flavors that dance across the palate thanks to the incredibly fine mousse that is at once firm but not aggressive on the notably dry but not really austere finale. I very much like the '96 Oenothèque as it's a wonderfully graceful effort that possesses impeccable balance and a refinement that it doesn't always achieve. In terms of where it is in its evolution, '96 is going to be one of those timeless vintages that will still be with us 30 years hence as I believe that it will continue to age effortlessly. For my taste this gorgeous effort has arrived at its peak though it should continue to hold here for years to come. In sum, this is flat out great and one of the greatest Champagnes of the modern era.
Critic scores
Average Score
The Wine Advocate
John Gilman, View From The Cellar
More reviews and scores
I tasted this at a friend’s 50th birthday, where we drank several incredible 1966 Bordeaux (the standout being Cheval Blanc 1966 that could easily have featured here). This was of course much younger, but just a brilliant Champagne. Richly textured, perfectly toasted from its 12 years on the lees (it was disgorged in 2008 and these later disgorged bottles have a little less dosage than the 2004 version). Elegant and precise but with layers of lemon curd creaminess that adds to the impressive complexity on display. This is 20 years old but still almost impossibly vibrant and fresh, and has many years ahead of it.
This was my first look at the 1996 Oenotheque release of Dom Pérignon, which of course if quite a bit behind the evolutionary arc of the original release of the wine. The bouquet is still fairly youthful and steely in profile, delivering a still primary nose of green apple, pear, a touch of menthol, great, stony minerality, the gentle botanicals of Dom Pérignon in its youth, bread dough and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, young and absolutely pristine, with laser-like focus, refined mousse, great backend mineral drive and a very long, focused and perfectly balanced young finish. This does not offer anywhere near the pleasure in the glass today as the original release, but it will be even finer once it has reached its apogee. Drink 2028-2075+.
About the producer
Dom Pérignon is one of the most highly regarded and well-known Champagnes in the world. The first and original prestige cuvée Champagne, it is today owned by LVMH.