1969 Dom Perignon Oenotheque

A bevy of Dom Pérignons followed. The more I taste DP the more I am convinced that the most consistently reliable bottlings are impeccably well-stored original releases, rather than the far pricier Œnothèque series. A flight of 1969s was off the charts. The original release was surprisingly ripe and explosive, with phenomenal length and head-spinning balance. The Rosé was quite a bit more subtle and almost wine-like in its dried roses, slightly faded fruit and delicate finish. I loved it. The Œnothèque showed great depth, detail and all-around polish. This is one of the very finest vintages for Dom Pérignon, and all three bottles were on fire. Disgorged 2006.

Soft, voluptuous, creamy and fully resolved, the 1969 Œnothèqueflowed with sensual tropical fruit layered into more advanced notes of toffee and caramel. The 1969 showed unusual concentration, the result of a small crop created by a spring frost. Simply put, it was magical.

In recent years Geoffroy has instituted a program of releasing recently-disgorged older vintages under the Œenothèque label. Some of the vintages from the 1990s are in their second release (also known as second plenitude), while the older, classic wines from the 1960s and 1970s are being released for a third time (also known as third plenitude), but in miniscule quantities. As part of the disgorging process, each bottle is tasted to insure consistency, something that is especially important with wines that have spent several decades on the cork. Dosage is kept low to minimal, particularly for the older wines. While the Œenothèques, especially the third releases, can be very pricey, at their finest they offer an extraordinary, otherworldly drinking experience matched by few wines in the world. The 1969 Dom Pérignon Œenothèque (3rd release) provides a fascinating contrast to the 1975. The flavors are very much “brown”, which is to say on the oxidative side. Honey, spices, candied orange peel and dried apricots are just some of the nuances that emerge from this generous, ample Champagne. Here too, the balance is impeccable, although the style is very different. I had previously believed that 1969 was the last vintage of Dom Pérignon to be fermented in oak, but according to Geoffroy the move to stainless steel had already taken place in the mid-1960s. Readers who want to experience a fully mature Œenothèque should consider the 1969. It is splendid. This bottle was disgorged in 2006, with minimal dosage of a just a few grams.