2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River

Of all the vintages to be tasted here today, from the 1970s to the 2022 vintage, this is the vintage I am most intrigued to taste. 2006 was notoriously—infamously—wet and cold. Ripening was challenging for a number of reasons, and many producers declined to make a top wine in that season. We almost never see them in market, and they are rarely brought to tastings or dinners to discuss, so there is some mystery shrouding the condition and quality of the wines. It is well known that Moss Wood is one of the few to make a successful Cabernet Sauvignon in this year, and so today, I have it before me. The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is undoubtedly leafy and herbal, and layers of tobacco, sandalwood, freshly grated nutmeg, ambrette seed and moss abound. In the mouth, the tannins are fine, still structuring and supportive, while the fruit is savory and fine. This is a remarkable effort in a hard year, but more than that, I find it to be an elegant, almost ethereal Cabernet Sauvignon with real presence and finesse. Super.