1988 La Grande Rue

The Vosne-Romanee La Grande Rue is the pride and joy of this house, and has long been considered by outside observers to be capable of producing Grand Cru quality wine. However, as good as the 1988 is, it is no Grand Cru. It has good color, and is probably the best wine Lamarche has made from this vineyard in well over a decade, but it should have more depth and complexity. It is a medium-bodied, aromatic, stylish wine with attractive berry fruit and spicy new oak, but it lacks outstanding concentration and complexity. Here is an estate making good, commercial examples of their appellations. However, with lower yields and perhaps a more extended cuvaison, this domaine has the potential to produce positively brilliant wines. I do not think it is just that the domaine seeks to produce wines that are light and ready to drink when released. The 1988s are all soft, very forward, and lacking somewhat in concentration, but they are attractive and easy-to-drink wines.