2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Baron

I have had some stunning bottles of the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Baron, but at other times have had bottles that seem to be slightly less concentrated and more diffuse. I don’t know whether there are different bottlings. The finest bottles (and they are superb) may well be the best wines Fortia has made in over 20 years, deep ruby/plum/purple with a gorgeously sweet nose of a spring flower garden interwoven with licorice, blackberry, sweet cherries, and plums bordering on figs. The wine is opulent, medium to full-bodied, with silky tannin, heady glycerin, plenty of richness and length, and a voluptuous finish. When it is not at its best, it seems to lack a mid-palate, but best bottles represent potentially the finest Fortia made in many years. The top bottles should drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Dark red. Earthy on the nose, with suggestions of cherry preserves, spice cake and dark molasses. Broad and lush in texture, with an expansive quality to the dark berry and cherry flavors. Picks up a truffley, sassafras tone on sweet, velvety, long finish.