2005 Taittinger

Once again, I am deeply impressed with the 2005 Brut Millesime Champagne, a truly lovely wine in what was a very challenging year. Pastry, almonds, pears, apricots and smoke are all layered together beautifully in the glass. Burnished overtones add an element of resonance that is hugely appealing. This is a terrific showing.

(L1247MZ02200): Light gold. Pear skin, orange and toasted hazelnut on the fragrant nose, with notes of anise and musky herbs building with air. Smooth and seamless on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering refreshingly bitter orchard fruit and citrus pith flavors. A dusty mineral nuance adds bite to the long, spicy finish. This Champagne is already drinking well and should continue to do so for at least another five years.

The 2005 Brut Millesime captures the essence of the vintage. Radiant, expressive and totally caressing, the 2005 offers up dried pears, cherries, hazelnuts, flowers and savory herbs, all with an exotic inner sweetness that is pure and totally beguiling. I don't see the 2005 being a long-term ager, but it is absolutely beautiful today and should drink well for at least a handful of years.