2004 Taittinger

(L1051M202200): Bright gold. Orchard fruit and citrus zest aromas are complicated by notes of honeysuckle, baking spices and candied ginger. Juicy and focused on the palate, with very good depth and clarity to its pear, quince and orange flavors. The spicy note builds with air and carries through a long, sappy, linear finish. The aging curve for this wine looks to be pretty long.

The estate's 2004 Brut Millésimé is a tense, wiry Champagne that needs at least several years in bottle to come together. The higher proportion of Chardonnay is felt in the wine's cut and verve. Hints of ah and crushed rocks linger on the finish. With air the wine softens a touch and becomes richer on the plate, but another few years in bottle should be beneficial. This is Lot L8376MX00200, disgorged November/December, 2008 (not indicated on label).

The estate’s 2004 Brut Millesime is a tense, wiry Champagne that needs at least several years in bottle to come together. The higher proportion of Chardonnay is felt in the wine’s cut and verve. A hint of crushed rocks lingers on the finish. With air the wine softens a touch and becomes richer on the plate, but another few years in bottle should be beneficial. This is Lot L8376MX00200, disgorged November/December, 2008 (not indicated on label). Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Taittinger is one of Champagne’s most consistent large brands. The flagship Comtes de Champagne and Comtes de Champagne Rose, two of the finest wines in the region, sometimes fly under the radar, but they are both super-pedigreed wines with brilliant track records for developing considerable complexity in bottle. Readers who want to learn more about the estate and Comtes in particular may want to take a look at my article on www.erobertparker.com published earlier in the year. Taittinger does so many things well, but it would be great to see the estate add disgorgement dates to its labels. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756