2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee

Moving up in quality and somewhat in price, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reserve reveals more concentrationthan the Olivets. It is medium to full-bodied and has a big, sweet kiss of kirsch liqueur intermixed with dried herbs, black currants, and loamy and resiny soil notes. The classic roasted Provencal herb note is also present in this expansive, savory wine, which should be drunk over the next 7-8 years. Jean-Jacques Sabon and his family run this renowned estate which is consistently one of the reference points of Chateauneuf du Pape. What is probably confusing for consumers is that there are four different Chateauneuf du Papes, but the first three are available in good commercial quantities, with only the Le Secret des Sabon a limited cuvee of under 200 cases. P.S. By the way, Jean-Jacques Sabon changed the upbringing of Le Secret des Sabon from some of the cuvee being aged in small oak barrels to 100% of it now aged in 600-liter demi-muids. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Dark red. Powerfully ripe scents of inky blackberry, blueberry and licorice deepened by dark chocolate and espresso. Round, deep flavors of cherry and dark berries verge on medicinal but are leavened by gentle acidity and framed by firm tannins. Finishes quite sweet and long, with a persistent garrigue element.

Deep red. Superripe nose verging on over the top: dark plum jam, kirsch, raw and cured meats, espresso, pipe tobacco and orange bitters. Lush and outsized, with deep, concentrated flavors of berry compote, dark chocolate, fruity black pepper and garrigue that really cling to the palate. Finishes dense and very long, with great power and energy and sweet dark fruit flavors that refuse to quit.