2004 Gigondas

The 2004 Les Pallieres Gigondas, cropped at 28 hectoliters per hectare, possesses notes of crushed rocks, dried herbs, raspberry and cherry fruit, elegance, medium body, and a nice, slightly austere but impressive finish. It should drink well for at least a decade. At the request of Daniel Brunier, all of the estates where he produces wines have been grouped together. There are some changes, several of which I noted last year. The second wine of Vieux Telegraphe has changed its name from Vieux Mas des Papes to Telegramme, and of course there is a major effort underway by Brunier to dramatically increase the quality of La Roquette with the introduction of a new luxury cuvee of about 4,000 bottles made from 100% Grenache from 70-year-old vines planted in a sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as Les Pialons. The importer is Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524, except for the Domaine La Roquette, which is imported by Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Medium red. Highly complex aromas of red fruits and pungent herbs, warmed by a gentle toasty oak tone. Suave flavors of raspberry and cherry are accented by lavender and bitter chocolate. Finishes on a sweet note, with dusty tannins and a lingering spice character.

Light red. Intriguing floral nose offers a range of textbook Southern Rhone aromas: wild strawberry, garrigue, dried violet and rose, and minerals. Supple and lithe, with very good flavor intensity but by no means thick, heavy or overly dramatic. In fact, this is precise, complex and subtly sweet, with focused red berry flavors carrying through the long, stony, herb-laced finish. An interesting, grown-up wine that should reward cellaring.