2004 Gigondas

The 2004 Gigondas Tradition is very evolved, reveals lots of finesse and supple tannins, and seems lightweight compared to the 2005. It has lower acidity than the 2005, but gorgeous, sweet loamy soil notes intermixed with crushed rock and plenty of blue and black fruits with a hint of acacia flowers. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. This is arguably the best estate of Gigondas, although the exuberant proprietor Yves Gras has plenty of competition from his nearby neighbor Louis Barruol at St.-Cosme. A few years ago readers may remember I mentioned that Gras started a negociant business which is obviously successful given his knowledge of local growers and top vineyards. He has also opened a wine-tasting bar and bistro in the old Roman village of Vaison La Romaine with one of the local chefs, Raoul Reichrath. It is called Bistro du ‘O. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Dark red. Intense aromas of strawberry, cherry, garrigue and anise. Lush and sweet, with fresh red and dark fruit flavors nicely framed by supple tannins. Finishes on a warm note, with a lingering red berry note. (I found the '04 Prestige des Hautes Garrigues overripe.)

Extremely dark monster weighing in at 15% alcohol. Big, rich, full, smooth, succulent and exciting. Layers of spice. Very youthful, very natural and very winning with lots of potential obviously. Great balance – a feat considering all that alcohol. Seems easily worth £108 a case (Genesis) to me. (JR)