2003 Gigondas

Gigondas is the flagship wine from Chateau Saint-Cosme. The soft, round 2003 Gigondas is a sexy, full-throttle effort revealing plenty of black fruits, licorice, smoke, and earth. It is ideal for drinking over the next 7-8 years. Proprietor Louis Barruol is one of the two finest producers of Gigondas (his wines rival those of Yves Gras’ Santa Duc), and also has a burgeoning negociant operation dedicated to making tasty wines. Readers should note that the estate wines are bottled under the Chateau Saint-Cosme label, and the negociant wines, made from purchased wines or grapes, are simply called Saint-Cosme. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

(a blend of 70% grenache and 30% syrah, from 40-to-50-year-old vines) Medium ruby color. Deeply aromatic nose of spicy plum and kirsch, accented by licorice and fresh violet. The cuvaison here lasted for 50 days, and this is apparent in the wine's concentration of flavor and power.