2011 Macon Milly Lamartine

The 2011 Macon Milly-Lamartine comes from two high altitude climats, “Montague” and “Heux d’Arbeaux” and was raised in two-thirds foudres and one-third in puncheons. It offers a minerally, slightly saline bouquet with hints of grilled walnuts that emerge with aeration. It seems a little “contained” at the moment. The palate is crisp and taut on the entry. It has a citric thread of acidity, although the finish is missing just a little weight and presence though it unfurls nicely with aeration. When Dominique Lafon acquired his first vines in Macon in September 1999, it was significant gesture, a statement, that the world should start taking this region more seriously. Why would one of the most respected vignerons in the Cote d’Or invest in the region after so much success back in Meursault? During my visits over the years, Dominique ceaselessly enthused about his Macon wines and it was clear that he was no less passionate about his Clos du Four as his Montrachet. It is a simple, functional winery dominated by foudres and puncheons, all used (although he buys two new puncheons out of sixty each vintage). And things are about to change, since 2013 will be the first year that the vineyard will be certified biodynamic, plus he has recently purchased the chateau and vines at Clos des Quarts with Olivier Merlin, who said that he took Dominique all of 60 minutes to invest in, after showing him the vineyard. That says as much about Dominique as the potential for Clos des Quarts. I tasted through his 2012s from barrel that are all promising, although with the malolactics at various stages I will defer appraising them until they are ready (which the exception of the Macon Village). Becky Wassermann Selections (Le Serbet); www.leserbet.com