2009 Vilmart Grand Cellier d'Or

Even though it is the product of a warm and radiant vintage, the 2009 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or (Magnum) is not at all ready to drink. Most likely, the magnum format has helped preserve a good bit of freshness. The inherent richness of the vintage is present, but it will be a few years at least before the wine enters its sweet spot. A host of orchard fruit, brioche, spice, dried flowers and licorice infuse this expressive, youthful Champagne.

The 2009 Cuvée Grand Cellier d'Or is showing beautifully today. Although quite rich and ample, the 2009 retains gorgeous freshness to balance some of the more overt signatures of the vintage. A super-expressive finish laced with pear, apple and white flowers rounds things out nicely. This is such a classic Vilmart Champagne, where balance and finesse are so evident in everything the house does. Disgorged June 2013.

Green-tinged straw. Pungent, mineral-laced aromas of fresh pear, honey, jasmine and anise. Densely packed orchard and citrus fruit flavors are sharpened by a jolt of zesty minerality, picking up iodine and leesy elements with aeration. Refreshingly bitter and focused on the finish, with the mineral and floral notes repeating. Disgorged in May, 2013.