2006 Vilmart Grand Cellier d'Or

The 2006 Grand Cellier d'Or (magnum) is a wine of both structure and nuance. Ethereal, floral aromatics reminiscent of the 2008 are married to the textural silkiness that recalls the 2007 in a Champagne loaded with personality and class. Today, the 2006 is naturally quite young, but it promises to drink well for many years. In short, the 2006 is a model of pure elegance. The Grand Cellier d'Or is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. This bottle was disgorged in March 2014. Dosage is 8 grams per liter, a little less in magnum than is the custom here in standard bottles.

A discreet touch of oak gives the 2006 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or (magnum) much of its shape and volume. Apricot, spices, flowers and mint inform this super-expressive, compelling Champagne. Simply put, the 2006 Grand Cellier d'Or is magnificent. The combination of aging in neutral oak followed by 53 months on the lees and the inclusion of 20% Pinot Noir in the blend all work together in yielding a compelling wine loaded with personality. The 2006 was disgorged in December 2011. Dosage was 8 grams/liter.

(80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir; aged for 53 months on its lees and disgorged in December of 2011; this was tasted from a magnum): Light, bright gold. Smoky, intensely perfumed aromas of pear, toasted bread, sweet butter, honeysuckle and dusty minerals. At once rich and energetic, offering palate-staining orchard fruit flavors and enlivening lemon zest and ginger flourishes. The smoky note repeats on the finish, which shows outstanding clarity, energy and length.