2004 Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame

61% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay (100% from grand cru vineyards). Dosage 8 g/l. Honeyed, woody complexity. Deep and rich and biscuity on the palate. Quite a firm grip at the moment too. Power, depth and length more than elegance though the acidity brings finesse to the finish. (JH)

This was the least expressive of these four 2004 champagnes tasted blind by far. Very neutral nose, not that much palate impact or persistence, with lots of acidity which I – foolishly – assumed meant it was the least expensive, always 'cool-tasting' wine, the Delamotte. As a Grande Dame, this bottle was rather a disappointment. Or perhaps it was just outclassed. (JR)

(made from fruit grown in eight different grand crus, mostly Verzenay and Avize; lot 5122815): Vivid gold. Heady aromas of orange, white peach and smoky minerals, with a note of buttered toast adding depth. Densely packed citrus and pit fruit flavors show chewy texture and a bright mineral quality that adds vivacity. Rich but lively and precise, finishing very long, with notes of candied fig and toasty lees.