2006 Gruner Veltliner Kellerberg Smaragd

The F. X. 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg is powerful, rich, and utterly suffused with the signature white pepper of this site. The finish here sizzles – but from peppery pungency and sweet herbal concentration, not from heat. The fruits here – kiwi, sweet pea, pea – are perfectly clear, and the overall impression is sappy, juicy, and irresistible. Honey, malt, coffee, and nutmeg lend underlying sweetness and subtle suggestions of torrefaction, perfectly complementing the wine’s glossy richness of texture and unquenchable, fresh primary fruit. This degree of clarity, elegance, and buoyancy is rare for the vintage, or indeed for Pichler Kellerberg. I anticipate this wine will reward tasters for 12-15 years at least. Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800