1998 TBA #5 Muscat Ottonel ZDS

Offered again this year, the 25-year-old 1998 Trockenbeerenauslese No. 5 Muskat Ottonel Zwischen den Seen displays a dark amber color and opens with cumquat, fig and black tea aromas with malty, caramel, bitter orange (zest) and pencil notes, as well as mocha and dried, smoked speck. Dense and sweet on the seamlessly textured palate, this is a full-bodied and generous but refined, elegant, Muscat with nougat and caramel notes on the fiery, saline, herbal, nicely bitter and finely tannic finish that displays thyme and oregano notes. This wine combines intensity with finesse and enormously complex tertiary flavors. With a good cigar, this TBA should be heaven on earth. 11.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork.

(for 375 ml.) Resinous in the nose, and smoky and low-toned in its herbal and pit fruit flavors, this wine gains momentum and juiciness toward the back, where blueberry preserve and candied grapefruit rind join in. Exceptionally variegated and sweet finishing fruit for a wine of this variety. While the oily grapefruit rind character also persists, there is none of the bitterness muskat ottonel sometimes betrays. 1 star.