2005 Riesling Loibner Berg Smaragd Trocken

The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg displays the deep, refined, dynamic character that the Steinertal lacks. Lemon and orange scent the nose, with a hint of tobacco suggestive of Gruner Veltliner and of litchi suggestive of Traminer. In the mouth, this is faintly oily in texture but sleek and bright, with a fascinating interplay of orange, peach, tart red fruits, spices, and salt, wet stone and ore-like minerality. For all of its ripeness and opulence, this carries only 13.5% alcohol, and displays lift and refinement in a superbly long, oscillating finish of fruit, spice, and mineral. Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Federspiel Von den Terrassen ($29.00; 86). Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800