2006 Beaune Greves

Pungent smokiness and smoked meat salinity mingle with tart rhubarb and cherry in the Lafarge 2006 Beaune Greves. At once bright and stony; firm and full of mineral and animal complexity; this finishes with astonishing grip, as if the deep roots of these 80 year old vines were clinging to your palate. Forget the charm that characterizes so many 2006s: this could only be called youthfully seductive if your idea of seduction involves whips and leather. I would plan to give it at least 4-5 years in the cellar and then anticipate at least an equal period of stimulating satisfaction. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70